How to Fix Squeaky Floors
Shim the gap from below or screw the floor down from above.
By Jonathan West · reviewed 2026-11-10 ·how we research these
To fix squeaky floors, identify the exact location of the movement, then stabilize the loose framing from below using wood shims and construction adhesive or drive breakaway screws from above into the underlying floor joists. At DIY Repair Guide, we compiled the fixes below from the hardwood industry's and the repair-kit maker's published instructions. Squeaks typically start when wood subfloor panels pull away from supporting joists or when seasonal humidity changes force adjacent hardwood floorboards to rub against one another.
Over time, standard smooth-shank construction nails loosen. Once a nail works loose, stepping on the subfloor causes the wood to slide up and down along the metal shank. Silencing the resulting squeak requires securing the moving material back to the framing or lubricating tight joints where wood components rub together.
How to Fix a Squeaky Floor Step by Step
Locating the precise origin of the noise determines whether the repair must be handled from above the finished surface or from an open basement or crawlspace below. Follow these six steps to silence loose floor sections.
- Walk across the room slowly with a helper to identify and mark every distinct squeaking area.
- Determine whether you have access to the underside of the floor framing. An unfinished basement ceiling or an open crawlspace allows you to secure the subfloor directly from below without altering the finished flooring.
- Address underside gaps using tapered wood shims coated in construction adhesive or by driving wood screws at an angle through the joist into the subfloor.
- Secure the subfloor from above if there is no access from below. Use a joist-finding screw and breakaway screws through carpeting into the joist, or drive screws into moving hardwood planks.
- Silence surface-level floorboard rubbing by working dry powder lubricants into the joints between boards.
- Recheck the repaired areas after a complete seasonal humidity cycle.
Where the Squeak Comes From
A floor squeak is rarely a random sound. It points to a specific physical gap where components rub together under foot traffic.
The APA, The Engineered Wood Association notes in Technical Note C468 that squeaks stem from many different origins across the floor assembly. These causes include wet or green lumber, improper panel spacing, improper glued floor construction practice, improperly driven nails, blocking and bridging, interior wall partitions, joist hangers, the subfloor-to-underlayment or finish flooring connection, cement-coated nails, ductwork, variation in joist depth or straightness, and noisy tongue-and-groove joints.
At DIY Repair Guide, we compiled the reference table below from published technical data by the American Hardwood Information Center, the APA, and O'Berry Enterprises to match common symptoms with working solutions. If you are examining subfloor panels, review our technical comparison of plywood vs OSB to understand how different panel materials behave when fasteners loosen.
| Where It Squeaks | Likely Cause | Fix That Reaches It | Access Needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Between adjacent floorboards | Seasonal swelling and shrinkage causing boards to rub together | Dry powder lubricant, glazier points, or liquid wax on wax finishes | Top side only |
| Directly over a floor joist | Gap between the subfloor and the top edge of the joist | Wood siding shim coated with construction adhesive | Underside access |
| Along a carpeted walking path | Subfloor wood sliding along loose smooth nail shanks | Scored breakaway screws driven through carpet into the joist | Top side only |
| Between two floor joists | Unsupported subfloor seam flexing under weight | Plywood bridge block glued and screwed to the panel underside | Underside access |
| Near a floor register or pipe | Subfloor flexing and rubbing on ductwork or piping | Not published | Top or underside |
| Across an entire room | Not published | Structural reinforcement or contractor evaluation | Underside access |
Fixing Squeaks From Below
Working from an unfinished basement or crawlspace provides direct access to the floor joists and subfloor without puncturing finished flooring materials. This approach allows you to secure moving panels cleanly out of sight.
The American Hardwood Information Center recommends shimming the gap between the subfloor and the joist at the squeak. The best shims are exterior wood siding shingles because their taper is more gradual than store pre-made shims. Apply construction adhesive to the joist-subfloor seam and the shim before carefully pounding the shim into the gap.
If the subfloor panel remains loose, fasten it directly to the joist with screws. Apply construction adhesive along the seam where the joist meets the subfloor, then drive a screw at an angle through the side of the joist into but not through the subfloor. For a snug fit, have someone stand on that section of floor above before driving the screw into the wood.
When a squeak occurs along an unsupported seam between two joists, install a bridge block. Coat one side of a small square piece of 3/4-inch plywood with construction adhesive. Place it centered over the seam against the subfloor underside, then drive short screws through the block into but not through the subfloor panels above.
Always verify screw length before driving fasteners upward from below. Drive screws into but not through the subfloor.
Fixing Squeaks From Above Through Carpet
When a finished ceiling prevents access from below, you can secure loose subfloor panels directly through wall-to-wall carpeting using a specialized squeaky floor repair kit. Fastening the subfloor down stops it from moving against loose framing nails.
According to published instructions from O'Berry Enterprises, most floor squeaks happen when nails used in building the floor work loose and rub when you step on the area. On plywood or chipboard floors, the nails hold the floor to the joist. Over time the nails loosen and the wood moves on the smooth shank of the nail. The fix is to find the joist and fasten the floor to it.
The kit includes an alignment and depth-control fixture and 50 special scored screws that break off below the surface. To find a joist, measure 9 inches from a wall parallel to the joists as a starting point, or start beside a floor heat vent, which always sits between two joists. Drive the joist-finding screw 2 inches into the floor. If you prefer not to test with screws, you can also use a stud finder to locate joists.
Once the joist is located, place the depth-control fixture over the carpet and drive a scored screw through the carpet, subfloor, and into the joist. The scored screws break off below the surface. On Berber or loop carpet, cover the short section of thread with transparent tape so it does not pull a strand. Standard pile carpet does not require tape.
The kit's joist-finding screw is designed for carpeted plywood or chipboard floors. It is not designed to find joists under hardwood floors. Always wear safety glasses and work in a well-lit area.
Fixing Creaky Hardwood Floorboards
Hardwood floor squeaks usually stem from seasonal movement rather than defective lumber or poor workmanship. As the American Hardwood Information Center notes, most squeaks occur as a result of the normal cycle of seasonal contraction and expansion, where fine cracks open in drier conditions and wood swells in humid conditions, making boards rub together.
For board-on-board friction, apply a generous amount of powdered soapstone, talcum powder, or powdered graphite between the squeaky boards. Place a cloth or towel over the area and work the powder in by stepping on the towel repeatedly. One or two additional applications may be necessary to fully coat the rubbing surfaces. Keeping indoor humidity consistent with a humidifier can also help reduce seasonal wood movement.
Liquid wax can be worked between boards only if the floor has a wax coating, not urethane or varnish. Another mechanical option involves glazier points, which are small triangular metal pieces used to install window glass. These can be driven into the spaces between boards and wedged in with a putty knife
When a hardwood plank lifts noticeably, fasten it from above using finishing nails. Pre-drill pilot holes with a bit about the same size as or slightly smaller than the nail. Start the pilot hole no closer than 1/2 inch to the edge of the floorboard, angle the drill slightly toward the center of the board, and do not drill into the subfloor. Push down firmly on the board while driving the nail, countersink the nail head with a nail set, and fill the small hole with matching wood filler.
If you use repair kit screws on hardwood, keep in mind that each plank has nails that generally cause the squeaks. Because of this, screws go into the plank that is visibly moving or where the noise comes from, not necessarily into the joist.
When a Squeaky Floor Needs a Contractor
Most isolated floor squeaks can be corrected with simple fasteners, shims, or lubricants. However, widespread movement across an entire room points to larger framing issues that hardware cannot resolve.
When an entire floor flexes, sags, or bounces under normal walking steps, the underlying floor joists may be cracked, rotted, or damaged. Our reference guide on the joist span table explains that the standard residential deflection limit of L/360 protects structure and finishes, yet a floor can meet code and still feel springy. If the joists bounce noticeably or have sustained physical damage, you need a flooring contractor or a structural engineer to evaluate the framing.
These steps cover nailed or glued subfloors and solid floorboards resting on standard wood framing. It is not designed for floors exhibiting widespread rot, noticeable sagging, or soft spots in the subfloor panels. This guidance covers nailed or glued floors on wood framing, and the floating-floor manufacturer's instructions apply instead.
Our recommendations would change if an inspection reveals that the squeak is a mechanical sound caused by floor framing flexing against ductwork, electrical conduit, or plumbing lines.
To resolve simple movement yourself, test the noisy area with a helper and choose the appropriate shim or fastener to complete how to fix squeaky floors.
Common questions
Can I use WD-40 to fix squeaky floorboards?
Hardwood industry guidance does not list WD-40 for floor repairs. The American Hardwood Information Center names powdered soapstone, talcum powder, or powdered graphite for squeaky boards, and allows liquid wax only on floors with an existing wax finish.
What type of screws are best for fixing squeaky floorboards?
A repair kit uses special scored breakaway screws from above, while from below, screws are driven at an angle through the joist into but not through the subfloor.
Do squeaky floor repair kits work?
Yes, squeaky floor repair kits work on carpeted plywood or chipboard floors by fastening the loose subfloor directly to the joist. On hardwood floors, the screws go into the specific plank that is visibly moving or producing the noise, though overall results depend on correctly finding the underlying cause.
How expensive is it to fix squeaky floors?
DIY fixes use inexpensive materials such as wood shims, construction adhesive, finishing nails, and specialized repair screws. A professional contractor's price depends entirely on floor access and the underlying cause of the squeak, so you should request on-site quotes.
Can you fix squeaky floors without removing flooring?
Yes, you can fix squeaky floors without removing the floor surface by working from below using shims and adhesive, or by driving scored breakaway screws from above directly through carpeting.
Why does my floor squeak?
Floors squeak primarily due to normal seasonal contraction and expansion that causes boards to rub together, loose nails sliding within the subfloor, or gaps opening between the subfloor and the floor joists.