Cost to Repipe a House
What a repipe costs, and when patching stops making sense.
Compiled by DIY Repair Guide · reviewed 2026-09-05 ·how we research these
Repiping a house means replacing the supply plumbing throughout rather than patching one failure. It is disruptive and expensive, and it is also the correct answer for a specific set of conditions. Chiefly a house plumbed in a material that is failing systemically rather than at one point.
The decision usually presents itself after the second or third leak in a year, when a plumber says the pipe itself is the problem. Here is what the job costs and how to judge whether they are right.
What It Costs
Supply pipe replacement throughout, including labor, fittings, permits, and patching the openings made to reach the pipe.
- Bathroom count drives price more than floor area. Each additional bathroom is another set of runs, fixtures and connections.
- Drain replacement is a separate job. These figures cover supply pipe only. Replacing waste and vent lines as well can double the total.
- Slab foundations cost more, because the pipe cannot simply be pulled out. Most repipes on slab reroute overhead through the attic and walls instead of breaking concrete.
| House size | cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) | Copper |
|---|---|---|
| Under 1,000 sq ft, 1 bath | $3,000–6,000 | $5,000–10,000 |
| 1,500 sq ft, 2 bath | $4,000–8,000 | $8,000–15,000 |
| 2,000 sq ft, 2–3 bath | $5,000–10,000 | $10,000–20,000 |
| 2,500+ sq ft, 3+ bath | $8,000–15,000 | $15,000–30,000 |
PEX or Copper
This is the main choice, and PEX has become the default for good reasons rather than purely cost.
PEX is flexible, which means far fewer fittings and far less opening of walls. A run can often be snaked through cavities that copper would require cutting open. It resists freeze damage better because it can expand slightly, it does not corrode, and it is quieter. The reservations are that it degrades under UV so it cannot be used outdoors exposed, some rodents will chew it, and it has a shorter track record than copper.
Copper lasts longer where water chemistry is kind to it, is unaffected by UV and rodents, and has a century of history behind it. It costs roughly twice as much installed, mostly in labor, and it is vulnerable to pinhole corrosion in areas with aggressive water.
For most residential repipes PEX is the sensible choice. Copper makes sense where it will be exposed, where local code or an HOA requires it, or where you have a strong preference for the known quantity.
| PEX | Copper | |
|---|---|---|
| Installed cost | Lower | Roughly 2x |
| Expected life | 40–50 yrs | 50–70 yrs |
| Wall damage during install | Less | More |
| Freeze resistance | Better | Poor |
| UV exposure | Not suitable | Fine |
| Corrosion | None | Possible with aggressive water |
The Pipe Materials That Force the Job
Some materials fail as a system rather than at one point, and patching them is throwing money at a pipe that will leak again somewhere else next year.
| Material | Era | Problem |
|---|---|---|
| Polybutylene (grey plastic) | 1978–1995 | Fails from the inside. Widely uninsurable |
| Galvanised steel | pre-1960 | Corrodes inward, restricting flow and releasing rust |
| Lead | pre-1930s, some services later | Health hazard. Replace |
| Early PEX-A with brass fittings | 1990s–2000s | Some fitting failures under certain water chemistry |
Polybutylene is the clearest case. It is usually grey, sometimes blue or black, about the diameter of copper, and stamped PB2110. Many insurers will not write a policy on a house that still has it, and it fails from the inside so a visual inspection tells you very little about how much life is left.
Signs a Repipe Is the Answer
One leak is a repair. These are the patterns that suggest the pipe itself has reached the end.
- Repeated leaks in different places within a year or two. This is the strongest signal. It means the failures are not local.
- Discoloured water, particularly rusty or brown on first draw in the morning, which points at galvanised pipe corroding internally.
- Falling pressure throughout the house rather than at one fixture. Galvanised pipe closes up from the inside over decades.
- Visible corrosion, green staining or pinholes on exposed runs in a basement or crawlspace.
- Any polybutylene, regardless of whether it has leaked yet.
- A plumber declining to warranty a repair because of the condition of the surrounding pipe.
What the Job Involves
A repipe is invasive by nature, and understanding the sequence explains both the cost and the disruption.
The plumber opens access at intervals. Small holes in drywall near fixtures, in ceilings, and at the manifold location. New lines are run, usually alongside the old ones, which are then abandoned in place rather than removed. Fixtures are reconnected, the system is pressure-tested, and an inspector signs it off. Then the openings are patched.
Expect three to seven days for a typical house, with water off during working hours but generally restored overnight. Ask specifically whether drywall patching and painting are included. Some quotes cover the patch to a paint-ready finish, some cover only the plumbing and leave you with thirty holes.
Getting the Quote Right
Repipe quotes vary enormously, and most of the variance is scope rather than rate.
- Confirm what is included: supply only, or drains as well. Hose bibs, ice maker line, outdoor spigots and the water heater connections should be listed explicitly.
- Ask about the shut-off valves. A repipe is the natural moment to fit a working shut-off at every fixture, and it costs little extra while the walls are open.
- Get the drywall scope in writing: patch only, patch and texture, or patch and paint.
- Ask about the main line. The service from the meter to the house is often a separate item and may be the actual problem.
- Check the warranty. Manufacturer warranties on PEX are long. The plumber warranty on workmanship is the one that matters and varies widely.
- Confirm the permit is included and that inspection is scheduled. Unpermitted repiping is a serious problem at sale.
Common questions
How much does it cost to repipe a house?
Typically $4,000 to $10,000 in PEX for an average home, and roughly double that in copper. Bathroom count drives the price more than floor area, and slab foundations cost more because the pipe has to be rerouted overhead.
Is PEX or copper better for a repipe?
PEX for most residential repipes. It is cheaper, needs far less wall opened, resists freezing better and does not corrode. Copper is worth it where pipe will be exposed to sunlight, where code or an HOA requires it, or where rodents are a known problem.
How do I know if I need to repipe?
Repeated leaks in different places within a year or two is the clearest signal, along with discolored water, falling pressure throughout the house, or visible corrosion on exposed runs. Any polybutylene is a case for repiping whether it has leaked or not.
How long does repiping take?
Three to seven days for a typical house. Water is usually off during working hours and back on overnight. Add time if drywall patching and painting are included in the scope.
Is polybutylene pipe really a problem?
Yes. It fails from the inside, so its condition cannot be judged by looking at it, and many insurers will not write a policy on a home that still has it. It is usually grey plastic stamped PB2110 and was installed roughly between 1978 and 1995.